Monday, September 3, 2018 5:45 AM

The grand opening of the shop on the city square, between the spice merchant and the hummus joint, is mobbed. Flocks of women with plastic glasses of white wine stand around empty card tables. The storefront may be some sort of beauty parlor. There's no sign. The inside, though brightly lit, is so empty that it's hard to tell. Portishead plays from portable speakers. The music clashes with the sound of the accordionist who stands at the far end of the square, playing indistinguishable klezmer tunes and light classics. I get my usual hummus plate and sit down outside, but the stench of cigarettes from the crowd drives me indoors. I look out the doorway as I eat, taking in the sights and sounds, but not the scents.