Saturday, August 18, 2018 5:38 AM

The tour guide really knows this town. His ancestors founded the neighborhood that we're exploring. It was the first built beyond the walls of the older city, planting the seeds of the new. Here, in this house, his family rejected a suitor who then won a Nobel Prize for his novel of lost love. Over there, a rival got an election overturned and stole the leadership of the city from someone far up the guide's family tree. After the tour, I lead my family through the sensory overload of a huge outdoor bazaar. When we emerge, we catch a bus back to our city and sit in an empty, cool ice cream shop, enjoying the silence.